60/60 Diamonds

When buying a diamond, the cut is one of the most important factors influencing its beauty and light performance. Among the various cuts available, 60/60 diamonds have sparked debate in the diamond-buying community. Named for their table percentage and depth percentage being close to 60%, these diamonds trade off certain qualities to emphasize others, making them a topic of interest for both buyers and industry experts.

The appeal of 60/60 diamonds lies in their increased brilliance and size appearance. However, this comes at the expense of other characteristics, such as fire and scintillation, leaving some buyers dissatisfied. Understanding what these diamonds offer and whether they align with your preferences is essential before making a purchase.

What Are 60/60 Diamonds?

60/60 diamonds are named for their proportions—specifically, a table percentage (the flat top facet) and depth percentage (the height of the diamond from table to culet) that are close to 60%. These proportions deviate from the standards of super-ideal cuts, which prioritize optimal light performance by balancing brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

In a 60/60 diamond:

• The Table Percentage (~60%): A larger table allows more white light to reflect back, increasing brilliance.
• The Depth Percentage (~60%): A shallower depth can enhance size appearance but often reduces the diamond’s ability to produce fire, the colorful flashes of light.

These proportions can create a diamond with strong brilliance and a larger face-up appearance, but they often lack the sparkle or dynamic light performance that makes a diamond come to life. While some buyers are drawn to the brightness and affordability of 60/60 diamonds, others find them to appear flat or glassy compared to super-ideal cut diamonds.

Pros of 60/60 Diamonds

60/60 diamonds have their share of advantages, which make them appealing to certain buyers. Here are the key benefits:

• Increased Brilliance: With a larger table, 60/60 diamonds are designed to maximize white light return, resulting in exceptional brightness. This makes them stand out in environments with bright or diffused lighting.
• Larger Face-Up Appearance: The shallower depth allows the diamond to appear larger when viewed from above compared to a super-ideal cut diamond of the same carat weight.
• Affordability: 60/60 diamonds are often less expensive than super-ideal cut diamonds due to their different cutting style. For buyers with a limited budget, they can be an attractive option to achieve a bright and sizable-looking diamond.
• Suited for Certain Settings: These diamonds can work well in designs where brilliance is the focus, such as halo or bezel settings, where fire and scintillation are less emphasized.

Cons of 60/60 Diamonds

While 60/60 diamonds have their advantages, they also come with significant drawbacks that can impact their overall appeal:

• Reduced Fire and Scintillation: The same proportions that enhance brilliance often reduce fire (colored light flashes) and scintillation (sparkle from movement). This can make the diamond appear less dynamic and lively in various lighting conditions.
• Flat or Glassy Appearance: Some buyers find 60/60 diamonds to lack depth and life, describing them as overly bright but flat or glassy, especially when compared to super-ideal cuts.
• Less Balanced Light Performance: Unlike ideal or super-ideal cuts that balance brilliance, fire, and scintillation, 60/60 diamonds prioritize brightness at the expense of a more complete light performance.
• Retailer Appeal, Not Consumer Benefit: 60/60 diamonds are often favored by retailers because they yield higher carat weights from rough stones, which increases profitability. However, this doesn’t necessarily translate to better value for the buyer.
• Limited Suitability for Certain Tastes: Buyers seeking the sparkle and fire typically associated with premium diamonds may find 60/60 cuts underwhelming.

The Science Behind the 60/60 Trade-Off

The light performance of a diamond depends on how its facets are proportioned and aligned to interact with light. In 60/60 diamonds, the larger table (around 60%) and shallower depth (around 60%) create a specific trade-off between brilliance (white light) and fire (colored light).

• Brilliance Boost: The larger table provides a larger surface for light to reflect directly back to the viewer. This creates a diamond that appears very bright, especially under broad, diffused lighting.
• Fire Reduction: The shallower depth limits the diamond's ability to bend light into spectral colors, reducing fire and making it less vibrant in dynamic lighting conditions.
• Impact on Scintillation: With reduced depth, the angles may fail to create optimal light reflection and refraction, resulting in a diamond that appears flat or lacking sparkle when viewed at different angles.

This trade-off makes 60/60 diamonds less balanced compared to super-ideal cuts, which are meticulously designed to optimize brilliance, fire, and scintillation equally.

How to Spot a 60/60 Diamond

Identifying a 60/60 diamond requires a closer look at its proportions and certifications. Here’s what to look for:

• Proportions on Certification: Check the diamond’s grading report from GIA or GCAL. Look for: Table percentage around 60% & Depth percentage around 60%.
• Focus on Table and Depth Values: If both percentages fall close to 60%, the diamond likely fits the 60/60 profile. These values will often stand out as they deviate from the proportions of ideal or super-ideal cuts.
• Use HD Images and Videos: Always request HD visuals to observe the diamond’s brilliance and fire in motion. This is particularly important for 60/60 diamonds, as their flatter look can be more pronounced in real life.
• Avoid Blind Purchases: Without visuals, you may end up with a diamond that lacks life or sparkle. This is especially true for 60/60 diamonds, where light performance varies depending on how precisely they are cut.

Who Should Consider a 60/60 Diamond?

60/60 diamonds can appeal to certain buyers, depending on their priorities:

• Size Appearance on a Budget: If you want a diamond that appears larger than its carat weight suggests without significantly increasing your budget, a 60/60 diamond might be a good choice.
• Preference for Brilliance: If you value white light brightness over fire and scintillation, the larger table of a 60/60 diamond delivers that brilliance.
• Simpler Settings: These diamonds can work well in settings where the focus is on the overall design rather than the diamond’s intricate light performance, such as halos or cluster rings.

However, for those who appreciate a balanced light performance with fire, brilliance, and scintillation, a 60/60 diamond may not meet expectations.

Better Alternatives to 60/60 Diamonds

For buyers who want more balanced light performance, there are better alternatives than 60/60 diamonds:

• Super-Ideal Cuts: These diamonds, often branded as Hearts & Arrows, are cut to exacting standards for unparalleled brilliance, fire, and scintillation. They offer a dynamic sparkle that 60/60 diamonds typically lack.
• Smaller Table, Deeper Depth: Diamonds with table percentages in the 54-58% range and depths around 61-62% tend to offer a more harmonious light return, resulting in vibrant sparkle and dynamic fire.
• Trusted Retailers: Look for diamonds from vendors like Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE®, James Allen True Hearts, or Blue Nile Astor. These retailers focus on well-cut diamonds and provide HD visuals to help you make an informed choice.

Conclusion

60/60 diamonds may seem appealing due to their brilliance and larger face-up appearance, but they come with significant trade-offs in fire, scintillation, and overall sparkle. While they might suit buyers looking for size on a budget, they often lack the dynamic light performance that makes diamonds truly captivating.